If it's easy for you to make printed circuit boards, here's a layout you may use for your clock. It's all one piece, sort of a "wall model". This upcoming winter I will most likely write a new version of the code that will simulate "analog clock hands", a nd this model will work nicely with that.

 This layout is for personal use only, please do not use this design to manufacture them for sale.

The PCB fully assembled.

 To make a laser printed transfer, use one of these two files that I created "print to disk". You'll need to drop to DOS and "copy filename lpt1" in order to print. Remember to substitute the real filename for "filename" and the correct printer port if it  isn't lpt1. If you have a Macintosh, you'll have to find one of those utilities that allow you to copy a file straight to a printer with no  translation. If you have something besides a Mac or PC, you're probably smart enough to figure it out without my help.
The easiest way might just be to use the PDF file and see how well your  printer is interpreted.
clkfoil.prn HP Laserjet IIP format.
clkfoil.ps Postscript format.
clkfoil.pdf PDF format.

 Here's a stuffing diagram for the propeller clock PC board. Part references correspond to the parts list below. Important note: There are four wire jumpers on the board. One is under U1 IC socket.
 

The Propeller Clock Parts List(matches PC board)

Capacitors:
C1, C2 - 15-33pf ceramic(not variable, just not critical)
C3, C6 - 0.1uf ceramic
C4 - 47uf electrolytic
C5 - 0.047 farad (47,000uf) supercap(memory cap)

Diodes:
D1-D7 - light emitting diodes. Use bright ones that cost a lot.
D8 - Optional LED for the new version I'm doing this winter.
D9-16 - 1N4001 general purpose 1 amp rectifiers

Resistors:
R1,R7-R13 - 120 to 220 ohm. Use 100 ohms if you dare. I do.
R2-R6 - 10k ohm

Misc:
J1 - three terminal Berg connector
SW1-SW3 - normally open pushbutton switches
U1 - PIC16C84 or PIC16F84 programmed with mclock code.
XTAL1 - 4MHz crystal
IC socket for U1, 18 pins.